
During a roasting many customers will ask, "where did those
green beans come from?" Let’s examine the journey of
a bean from the La Minita plantation in Costa Rica.
Coffee beans are the seeds of a berry called a "cherry" for
the shape and for the deep crimson color of a fully ripe fruit. The
best flavor comes from deep vermilion cherries verging on a mahogany
color – the color of dead-ripe Bing cherries.
Once hand picked the cherries travel by truckloads to nearby mills
where they undergo a "wet" processing. The fruit is siphoned
into a depulper for a skinning stage which is actually a misleading
term. The pulp stays; the skin goes. The slimy skinned beans come
to rest in a trough, a big stone open-topped fermenting tank. Timing
is of the essence as the cherries begin to ferment quickly – a
process that is meant only to loosen the pulp of the fruit from
the seeds it holds and not to add any flavor. If this fermentation
penetrates the beans they will have the taste of rotten fruit or
a "sweaty onion" flavor. In the troughs overhead pipes
dump the wet beans into separate tubs by size. The water drains
out the bottom and the seeds sit for anywhere from 8 to 48 hours
or longer while the sugary mucilage begins to ferment and decompose.
The removal of the fermented mucilage takes place in a long, elevated
channel. In the washing channel the beans are further separated
by size. The washed and sorted beans flow into stone draining pools
where they remain until they lose their excess water.
Beans in their parchment – a hard, thin jacket that remains
once the mucilage is washed away - look something like small pistachio
nuts, with a clear tan color that shines in the sun. Now the beans
must dry, either in the sun or in a mechanical dryer. Remaining
wet will induce a secondary fermentation which will impart undesirable
flavors. For a period of 1 – 3 weeks the beans are raked
in a checkerboard pattern, going up and down and then across and
back. A foreman will determine which beans to send to a big rotating
drum dryer where they spin for 2 –3 days at a temperature
of 122 – 140 degrees F. The dried beans rest in their protective
parchment either in silos or laid on plywood and covered with canvas
until they are shipped. During the rest period, which should last
a minimum of 20 – 30 days, the cell structure hardens and
the beans become more resistant to potential damage from humidity
or pressure.
A hulling stage now involves the parchment being peeled of the
beans in a machine that works by friction. The preferred beans
present a fair amount of silverskin, the light glistening papery
chaff that remains beneath the parchment. Under ripe beans can
be recognized by looking at this silverskin. On a ripe bean it
will adhere in flaky looking pieces whereas on an unripe bean it
will be finely webbed, as if the bean had been sandblasted. The
stripped beans now pass over vibrating screens that separate them
by size.
The last step is an extraordinary venture. Perched on stools in
front of wooden work stations, 60 –70 women hand sort the
beans, separating out those with adherent silverskins that indicate
that they are not ripe, and discarding those that are misshaped
or discolored. The approved beans are double sewn into big bags
and can be transported to any U.S. city in about a month.
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